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  • Driving through rural Bosnia, you pass one abandoned building after another. Many have bullet holes or the marks of shelling; others are destroyed altogether

  • Money is one reason the buildings remain so decrepit, but a more significant reason may be that no one wants them

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  • Bosnia has one of the world’s fastest-declining populations. Each year, its population shrinks by 1.4%. That has several causes: The economy is terrible and corruption is rampant, so people emigrate for work; people have little money and often little hope, so they don’t have kids; and the country can’t attract immigrants

  • The result is that each year, there are fewer and fewer Bosnians

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  • A highly-educated professional in Sarajevo told me that one of the biggest issues is that “nepotism is rampant”

  • When I commented that connections help everywhere, he said Bosnia was worse: It’s not a matter of one qualified person beating out another because he knows the manager, he said. It’s a matter of someone totally unqualified getting hired over someone qualified because their family does a favor for the manager

  • He said most well-paying Bosnian jobs are allocated this way, with one exception: Foreign tech companies, which outsource to Bosnia and elsewhere in the Balkans. They’re outside of the Bosnian system, he said, and may be the most meritocratic part of the economy

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  • For the Bosnians who leave, Germany is the most popular destination, followed by Switzerland and Austria

  • Those who can get American visas go there, but that is difficult. Typical German incomes are €2,000 a month, Bosnians told me, compared to €400 a month in Bosnia. Some people get visas to work legally; others sneak in or enter on tourist visas and work under the table

  • The declining population is turning swaths of rural Bosnia into ghost towns

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  • “This is a dead city,” Mladim, a man in his 40s, told me of Srebrenica. “Everyone’s gone”

  • Those who had left included his ex-wife, who took his two kids to Germany. When I asked what he did for work, he shrugged: “No work. I’m going to Germany in January.” He spent his days drinking at a café

  • Another woman, in her 20s, said, “Growing up here was great. There were a lot of people…Now, it’s hard. Everyone has left”

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  • Another man, in his early 30s, had lived in the UK and worked as a dancer. After Brexit, he lost his visa and ended up a tour guide at an obscure Bosnian tourist attraction

  • “Everyone leaves and goes to Germany,” he said, guessing that that’s where 90% of Bosnian emigrants go. “You make a friend for four or five years, then they leave

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  • When you ask those who’ve stayed why they have, they typically say they don’t want to leave their country, culture, and language

  • One guy I met at a club in Sarajevo had spent seven years working for a multinational corporation in Germany but moved home because he missed it

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  • In Finland, I had met a Bosnian man who had brought his family there as refugees in the 1990s. They proceeded to put down roots in Helsinki, where the man and his son opened a successful café. Still, he longed to go back to Bosnia

  • “Everyone thinks it’s easier here, but it’s not. After taxes, rent, food, you end up making no more money, maybe just a little more money. And you work a lot more,” he said. When factoring in the homesickness and loss of culture, he said he wasn’t sure emigration was the right move

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  • Bosnia is not unique: Eastern Europe, and especially the Balkans, has the world’s fastest-declining populations. Serbia’s is shrinking by .9% each year, Croatia’s up to 3%. Each country has towns and villages that have emptied out 

  • Yet Bosnia, one of the region’s poorest and youngest countries, may be suffering the worst brain drain. Every day, more people – doctors, nurses, teachers, engineers – leave, and fewer people remain to help the country prosper

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